Аннапурна

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Самая легкая категория – 1-я, самая трудная, на границе возможного, – 6-я. Насчитывается всего несколько альпинистов, способных пройти участки 6-й категории. Большинство известных маршрутов в Альпах оценено 4-й категорией. В Гималаях, где трудность восхождения увеличивается из-за высоты, альпинисты обычно избегают сложных маршрутов или, во всяком случае, стараются выбирать маршруты не выше 4-й категории трудности. В России принята 5-балльная система классификации маршрутов с подразделением каждой категории на А и Б. {Примеч. перев.)"},{"id":"id947:0","kind":"heading","text":"72"},{"id":"id947:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Так назывались на экспедиционном жаргоне наиболее сытные консервы, составлявшие основное питание"},{"id":"id946:0","kind":"heading","text":"73"},{"id":"id946:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Тонкая вспомогательная веревка. (Примеч. перев.)"},{"id":"id945:0","kind":"heading","text":"74"},{"id":"id945:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Специальные питательные напитки. (Примеч. перев.)"},{"id":"id944:0","kind":"heading","text":"75"},{"id":"id944:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Резиновые подметки с крупнорельефным рисунком, увеличивающим сцепление"},{"id":"id943:0","kind":"heading","text":"76"},{"id":"id943:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Вертикальная расщелина в скале"},{"id":"id942:0","kind":"heading","text":"77"},{"id":"id942:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Свободный спуск по двойной веревке с последующим выдергиванием ее"},{"id":"id941:0","kind":"heading","text":"78"},{"id":"id941:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"То есть снимаем кошки, прикрепленные к ботинкам ремнями"},{"id":"id940:0","kind":"heading","text":"79"},{"id":"id940:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Таково прозвище Марселя Шаца, данное ему альпинистами за пристрастие к организационным делам"},{"id":"id939:0","kind":"heading","text":"80"},{"id":"id939:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"См. схематическую карту Главного хребта Аннапурны {рис. 6}"},{"id":"id938:0","kind":"heading","text":"81"},{"id":"id938:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"\"Длинный человек\""},{"id":"id937:0","kind":"heading","text":"82"},{"id":"id937:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Приспособление из брезента, с лямками, для переноски пострадавшего на спине"},{"id":"id936:0","kind":"heading","text":"83"},{"id":"id936:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Теперь готово!"},{"id":"id935:0","kind":"heading","text":"84"},{"id":"id935:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Все сагибы теперь уйдут"},{"id":"id934:0","kind":"heading","text":"85"},{"id":"id934:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Это надо быстро отнести в Тукучу для всех сагибов…"},{"id":"id933:0","kind":"heading","text":"86"},{"id":"id933:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Иди, Саркэ! Счастливого пути! Это очень важно…"},{"id":"id932:0","kind":"heading","text":"87"},{"id":"id932:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Челноками называются повторные рейсы по одному и тому же маршруту для организации промежуточных лагерей"},{"id":"id931:0","kind":"heading","text":"88"},{"id":"id931:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Большая ступень, в которой могут поместиться обе ноги"},{"id":"id930:0","kind":"heading","text":"89"},{"id":"id930:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Таково было показание наших альтиметров"},{"id":"id929:0","kind":"heading","text":"90"},{"id":"id929:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Этот шерп на пути от Тукучи до базового лагеря отличался чрезмерной склонностью к употреблению чанга"},{"id":"id928:0","kind":"heading","text":"91"},{"id":"id928:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Нет, спасибо, это только для сагиба!"},{"id":"id927:0","kind":"heading","text":"92"},{"id":"id927:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Начиная с Чойя, расположенной примерно на высоте 2500 метров, он без единого дня перерыва поднялся до 7000 метров"},{"id":"id926:0","kind":"heading","text":"93"},{"id":"id926:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"В действительности, как было установлено позднее, мы нахо лились на высоте 6850 метров"},{"id":"id925:0","kind":"heading","text":"94"},{"id":"id925:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Она очень похожа на \"Птичий Клюв\" Грепона в массиве Монблана"},{"id":"id924:0","kind":"heading","text":"95"},{"id":"id924:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Лямбер Раймон – проводник из Женевы. После трагического восхождения, во время которого он сильно поморозился, у него были ампутированы пальцы обеих ног"},{"id":"id923:0","kind":"heading","text":"96"},{"id":"id923:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Верхние лагеря не должны были оставаться незанятыми"},{"id":"id922:0","kind":"heading","text":"97"},{"id":"id922:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Теперь… доктор-сагиб… быстро, очень быстро!"},{"id":"id921:0","kind":"heading","text":"98"},{"id":"id921:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Держите меня крепче, потому что…"},{"id":"id920:0","kind":"heading","text":"99"},{"id":"id920:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Айла, внимание!.. Внимание!.."},{"id":"id919:0","kind":"heading","text":"100"},{"id":"id919:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"В этот момент мы с Ляшеналем выходили из лагеря V по направлению к вершине."},{"id":"id918:0","kind":"heading","text":"101"},{"id":"id918:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Удо и Нуаель намеревались подняться в лагерь II и установить там палатки взамен унесенных Гастоном и Лионелем. Для Удо этот подъем явился важной проверкой эффективности использования кислорода"},{"id":"id917:0","kind":"heading","text":"102"},{"id":"id917:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"\"Увидели\". (Примеч. перев.)"},{"id":"id916:0","kind":"heading","text":"103"},{"id":"id916:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"В действительности – 150 метров"},{"id":"id915:0","kind":"heading","text":"104"},{"id":"id915:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Северная стена вершины Эйгер сложное восхождение в Альпах"},{"id":"id914:0","kind":"heading","text":"105"},{"id":"id914:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Не спеши, Аджиба!"},{"id":"id913:0","kind":"heading","text":"106"},{"id":"id913:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Изогнутый кинжал, национальное непальское оружие"},{"id":"id912:0","kind":"heading","text":"107"},{"id":"id912:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Ледоруб был найден через два дня"},{"id":"id911:0","kind":"heading","text":"108"},{"id":"id911:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Хорошее место!"},{"id":"id910:0","kind":"heading","text":"109"},{"id":"id910:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Хирургический инструмент в форме скребка, применяемый для чистки костей и отделения живой ткани от мертвой"},{"id":"id99:0","kind":"heading","text":"110"},{"id":"id99:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Харрер был участником германской экспедиции"},{"id":"id98:0","kind":"heading","text":"111"},{"id":"id98:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Дай ему две рупии"},{"id":"id97:0","kind":"heading","text":"112"},{"id":"id97:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"\"Под веселые звуки балалаек…\""},{"id":"id96:0","kind":"heading","text":"113"},{"id":"id96:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Осторожней!"},{"id":"id95:0","kind":"heading","text":"114"},{"id":"id95:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Носилки для переноски пассажира в сидячем положении"},{"id":"id94:0","kind":"heading","text":"115"},{"id":"id94:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Знаменитый французский военный инженер. (Примеч. перев.)"},{"id":"id93:0","kind":"heading","text":"116"},{"id":"id93:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"В Непале – торжественная аудиенция у короля"},{"id":"id92:0","kind":"heading","text":"117"},{"id":"id92:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"\"Поздравляю!\""},{"id":"id91:0","kind":"heading","text":"118"},{"id":"id91:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Надгробный монумент, в котором хранятся прах или реликвии Будды, или же просто памятник"}],"toc":[{"id":"id9143:0:1","label":"Annotation","page":1,"pageUrl":"/books/0o71AxAo#reader-content"},{"id":"id9142:0:1","label":"Морис Эрцог Аннапурна","page":1,"pageUrl":"/books/0o71AxAo#reader-content"},{"id":"id9141:0:1","label":"Предисловие","page":1,"pageUrl":"/books/0o71AxAo#reader-content"},{"id":"id9140:0:2","label":"Введение","page":2,"pageUrl":"/books/0o71AxAo?page=2#reader-content"},{"id":"id9139:0:2","label":"Революция во дворце","page":2,"pageUrl":"/books/0o71AxAo?page=2#reader-content"},{"id":"id9138:0:5","label":"\"Острова\"","page":5,"pageUrl":"/books/0o71AxAo?page=5#reader-content"},{"id":"id9137:0:9","label":"Неизвестное ущелье","page":9,"pageUrl":"/books/0o71AxAo?page=9#reader-content"},{"id":"id9136:0:12","label":"Восточный ледник","page":12,"pageUrl":"/books/0o71AxAo?page=12#reader-content"},{"id":"id9135:0:16","label":"В поисках Аннапурны","page":16,"pageUrl":"/books/0o71AxAo?page=16#reader-content"},{"id":"id9134:0:22","label":"Военный 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