Из Парижа в Астрахань. Свежие впечатления от путешествия в Россию

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В ходе поездки он посещает Санкт‑Петербург, Москву, Волгу, Финляндию и Кавказ, пишет путевые очерки, которые подвергаются надзору российских властей и публикуются в Париже и Брюсселе. В книге сочетаются личные впечатления автора, исторические анекдоты и критика российской бюрократии, а также рассказы о великих русских монархах и политических интригах."},{"key":"conflict","title":"Главный конфликт / проблема","body":"Надзор и цензура российских властей над иностранными путешественниками и их произведениями, а также внутренние политические конфликты и заговоры в России XIX века."},{"key":"keyIdeas","title":"Ключевые идеи","body":["Дюма исследует российскую географию и историю, используя современные транспортные средства.","Путешествие сопровождается наблюдением властей и критикой со стороны русских чиновников.","Автор создает путевые очерки, которые позже публикуются и переводятся, влияя на восприятие России за рубежом.","Встреча русских графов в Париже и их семейная история","Роль графа Кушелева-Безбородко как секретаря Екатерины II и хранителя завещания","Мистический элемент, представленный историей Даниеля Хоума","Проблемы с перевозкой животных в поездах и на пароходах.","Культурные различия и бытовые привычки между Францией и Россией.","Личное восприятие путешествия и размышления о русской истории.","Петр I стремится к западной модернизации России.","Внутренние заговоры и репрессии укрепляют власть царя.","Военные кампании Петра расширяют территорию и укрепляют флот."]},{"key":"conclusion","title":"Вывод","body":"Книга показывает, что путешествие и наблюдение могут стать мощным инструментом критики и понимания, но они неизбежно сталкиваются с политическим надзором и бюрократическими препятствиями, подчёркивая необходимость реформ и свободы в российском обществе."},{"key":"audience","title":"Кому полезна","body":["Историки и любители истории","Путешественники и исследователи культуры","Литературные критики и читатели романтической эпохи"]},{"key":"topics","title":"Главные темы","body":["Путешествие и наблюдения автора","Российская история и монархия","Бюрократия и надзор","Культурные традиции и искусство","Политические интриги и заговоры"]},{"key":"characters","title":"Персонажи","body":["Александр Дюма — Французский писатель, путешествующий по России, пишет путевые очерки, анализирует историю и общество, размышляет о культурных различиях, собирает впечатления о бюрократии, культуре и легендах, наблюдает за русской жизнью.","Граф Кушелев-Безбородко — Потомок казаков, служил Екатерине II, участвовал в составлении завещания, предоставил гостеприимство и арендовал пароход, участвовал в путешествии Дюма.","Дандре — Сопровождающий Дюма, помогает решать вопросы с животными, участвует в перевозке, управляет финансами и логистикой, проверяет багаж, не открывает запрещённые книги.","Дмитрий Нарышкин — Обеспечивает транспорт, переводчика и гостеприимство, принимает Дюма в Елпатьево, отдает шубу, помогает в логистике.","Князь Долгоруков — Организует тайный надзор над Дюма.","Петр I — Реформатор, модернизирует армию, флот, духовенство, участвует в войнах, строит Санкт-Петербург, проводит реформы в государстве.","Император Николай — Автократ, подавляет восстания, требует военной дисциплины, проявляет странные привычки, держит власть как автократическое право.","Екатерина II — Покорительница, управляет, побегает из Петергофа, коронуется, управляет империей.","Пушчин — Обсуждает службу и личные убеждения с нарраторам, участвует в путешествии.","Лермонтов — Обсуждает требования Николая к поэтам, участвует в путешествии.","Некрасов — Мизантроп, охотник, известен печальными стихами, критикой общества.","Панаев — Лучший журналист, дружит с Некрасовым, живёт с ним и женой."]},{"key":"quotes","title":"Цитаты","body":["Летом 1858 года началось новое французское вторжение в Россию.","Писатель отводилась смиренная роль шафера на свадьбе Хоума и свояченицы графа.","«Весь второй этаж отеля «Трех Императоров» с балконом сплошь в розовых кустах, камелиях, рододендронах и азалиях, освещенных a giorno (итал.)»","«Граф Кушелев-Безбородко объявился на втором этаже в сказочной роскоши. Предок Безбородко принадлежал к лиге запорожских казаков…»","«Собаки не могут ехать в тех же вагонах, что и пассажиры.»","«В Берлине уже знали о моем приезде! Какой тайный гонец, какой почтовый голубь или пассажир, какой электрический телеграф меня предал?»","«Петр оставит в Москве гражданским губернатором потомственного боярина Ромодановского; он уверен в его крутой и неколебимой верности».","«Санкт-Петербург ― морской порт, самый близкий к Волге, к этой главной артерии, к этой аорте России».","«Мы в Санкт-Петербурге 72 часа и еще не видели ни Дандре, ни наших 57 мест багажа.»","«Незавершённость судьбы Дандре и 57 мест багажа создаёт напряжённый финал.»"]}],"authorSummary":{"key":"authorSummary","title":"Сводка по автору из Wikidata","body":"1802–1870. Alexandre Dumas. французский писатель и драматург (1802—1870)"},"hasArtifacts":true,"canReadInApp":true,"readUrl":"https://web.bookra.app/?startapp=r_796328","artifactsUrl":"https://web.bookra.app/?startapp=b_796328","readCtaLabel":"Читать бесплатно","artifactsCtaLabel":"AI-разбор","appReadLinks":{"tg":"https://t.me/bookra_lib_bot/BookRa?startapp=r_796328","vk":"https://vk.com/app54470698#startapp=r_796328","max":"https://max.ru/id7751370047_bot?startapp=r_796328","web":"https://web.bookra.app/?startapp=r_796328"},"appAnalysisLinks":{"tg":"https://t.me/bookra_lib_bot/BookRa?startapp=b_796328","vk":"https://vk.com/app54470698#startapp=b_796328","max":"https://max.ru/id7751370047_bot?startapp=b_796328","web":"https://web.bookra.app/?startapp=b_796328"},"guestReaderUrl":"/books/1mN3aZLq?page=3#reader-content","authorCtaLabel":"Все книги автора","authorProtectedUrl":"/author/e05b7d98-2a80-102a-9ae1-2dfe723fe7c7","readersCount":0,"adultLabel":"0+","yearLabel":null,"datePublished":null,"publisherLabel":null,"isbn":null,"oclc":null,"lccn":null,"partnerUrl":null,"accessNote":"Полный текст книги и AI-разбор откроются на защищенных страницах BookRa после входа."},"reader":{"page":3,"totalPages":247,"hasPrev":true,"hasNext":true,"prevPageUrl":"/books/1mN3aZLq?page=2#reader-content","nextPageUrl":"/books/1mN3aZLq?page=4#reader-content","progressLabel":"Страница 3 из 247","sections":[{"id":"id6341:33","kind":"paragraph","text":"Настоящий писатель все увидит и все поймет. Как палеонтолог по кости доисторического животного воссоздает его облик, так и писатель по неприметной детали способен представить себе картину социальной жизни. Мое доверие к Дюма в целом оправдалось. Каждая перевернутая страница подтверждала, что путаницы в очерках нет. Конечно, тогда не было диктофонов, и ему трудно было улавливать на слух и правильно записывать русские названия некоторых городов и селений, пристаней и почтовых станций, иные русские фамилии. Подходящая карта с обозначением притоков больших рек не всегда оказывалась под рукой. Окружение не сумело подсказать ему точный возраст ушедших из жизни поэтов и других деятелей нашей культуры. Но допущенные погрешности не делают погоды, тем более что они замечены."},{"id":"id6341:34","kind":"paragraph","text":"Писатель с симпатией и глубоким участием отнесся к многоликому населению державы под двуглавым орлом. Однако тех, кто хотел бы канонизировать доброе старое царское время, ждет разочарование. Дюма заметил, что народу недостает братства и привычки к свободе, разглядел все формы деспотизма, коррупции и рабства. Конструктивно отнесся к вопросу собственности и другим проблемам, которые силой инерции достигли наших дней. Заметил, что России понадобится ни одна революция, чтобы сравняться с Западом."},{"id":"id6341:35","kind":"paragraph","text":"За неблаговидные поступки и поведение получило от него на орехи и духовенство. Но в то же время сделан исторически важный вывод:"},{"id":"id6341:36","kind":"paragraph","text":"«Клир ― единственный класс государства, который своей сплоченностью противостоит всякого рода развалу, что столько тираний кряду обрушил на Россию; клир не только остается на ногах и сильным, но еще и национальным; среди всеохватной коррупции религиозный дух есть особая атмосфера, которая окружает его и которой он жив, следуя долгу и храня свою веру; лишь он сопротивляется домашнему предательству, иностранному нашествию, лишь он ― его герои и мученики ― утверждает великую социальную правду, тогда как партийность и сословность никогда не способны отказаться от сектантства»."},{"id":"id6341:37","kind":"paragraph","text":"Эти пророческие слова вместе с другими высказываниями писателя опубликовала в первом своем номере (май 1991 года) газета Правительства РФ «Российские вести». В период новой смуты они предвосхитили потребность светской России искать защиты и спасения у церкви."},{"id":"id6341:38","kind":"paragraph","text":"Очерки написаны с путеводительской точностью. Зная старые названия, легко отыскать след Дюма в городе на Неве, в Москве и волжских городах, на Кавказе. Убедиться в этом помогли мне поездки по его следам. Например, на Валааме без расспросов, по авторским описаниям, удалось опознать бухту, где Дюма сошел с парохода на берег; там даже деревья у дорожки, ведущей к монастырской лестнице, стоят так же."},{"id":"id6341:39","kind":"paragraph","text":"Люди и время пощадили не все вехи путешествия. Нет больше в Троице-Сергиевой лавре надгробья, «обезглавленного» по приказу Петра, потому что лицо, достойное казни, дерзнуло скрыться и там умереть. Не сохранился деревянный «замок» Нарышкина в ярославской деревне Елпатьево. Улицы Калязина, по которым ходил Дюма, и причал, с которого он поднялся на борт волжского парохода в сопровождении всех офицеров местного гарнизона и полкового оркестра, ― на дне Угличского водохранилища. Но многое осталось. Вчитаемся в строки мастера и оглядимся."},{"id":"id6341:40","kind":"paragraph","text":"Как в Неве, отражена в них «вилла Безбородко», штаб-квартира путешественника в Санкт-Петербурге. Сегодня это здание занимает противотуберкулезный диспансер."},{"id":"id6341:41","kind":"paragraph","text":"Те же номера на зданиях Английской набережной. По ним выходишь к бывшей резиденции испанского посланника, у которого Дюма был с визитом."},{"id":"id6341:42","kind":"paragraph","text":"Доверясь писателю, на берегу Финского залива определяешь место петергофской дачи, куда на лето выезжала редакция журнала «Современник», и где Панаев и Некрасов принимали гостя из Франции."},{"id":"id6341:43","kind":"paragraph","text":"К северу от Сортавалы, в 10 километрах от финской границы, стали озерами прежние карьеры. Рядом с ними открыты новые, правда, с устаревшей оснасткой для распиловки мраморного монолита…"},{"id":"id6341:44","kind":"paragraph","text":"Найдется множество подтверждений справедливости слов и суждений Дюма. Книжное издание очерков полуторавековой давности, а также обнародование их в Интернете ― лучший способ реабилитировать писателя в наших глазах. Правда, это был не единственный довод к тому, чтобы 31 мая 2009 года передать национальному серверу «Проза.ру» тысячу великолепных страниц."},{"id":"id6341:45","kind":"paragraph","text":"Владимир Ишечкин"},{"id":"id6340:0","kind":"heading","text":"Александр Дюма Из Парижа в Астрахань. Свежие впечатления от путешествия в Россию"},{"id":"id6339:0","kind":"heading","text":"Вступительное слово"},{"id":"id6339:1","kind":"paragraph","text":"Не знаю, дорогие читатели, помните ли, что однажды ― скоро этому 24 года ― я сказал: «Совершу турне по Средиземному морю; вкруговую; напишу историю древнего мира, которая не что иное, как история цивилизации»."},{"id":"id6339:2","kind":"paragraph","text":"Много смеялись, крепко насмехались надо мной. Один человек, которого я заверил, что заработаю миллион, отомстил мне роскошной издевкой. Он сказал:"},{"id":"id6339:3","kind":"paragraph","text":"― Вы не знаете, Дюма открыл Средиземное море!"},{"id":"id6339:4","kind":"paragraph","text":"И с этого дня он решил, что отделался от меня."},{"id":"id6339:5","kind":"paragraph","text":"Слово имеет свою цену, но стоит ли оно миллион? Стоят ли столько пьесы «Кристина», «Ричард Дарлингтон», «Карл VII», «Нельская башня», «Анжела», что я ему передал, сомневаюсь."},{"id":"id6339:6","kind":"paragraph","text":"Путешествие, вернее, серию путешествий, что я задумал, трудно было осуществить на скромные средства пишущего человека без помощи правительства; но, в конце концов, с божьей помощью, это не казалось мне больше невозможным. Я выехал в 1834 году. В первом путешествии повидал весь юг Франции, от Сета до Тулона: Эг-Морт, Арль, Тараскон, Бокер, Ним, Марсель, Авиньон (департамент Воклюз). Это было началом."},{"id":"id6339:7","kind":"paragraph","text":"В следующем году поехал снова; на этот раз мое путешествие длилось два года. В один прием я увидел Йер, Канн (Жуанский залив); Грас, Драгиньян, Ниццу, Ла-Корнишь; Геную, Флоренцию, Пизу, Ливорно, Турин, Милан, Пистою, Перуджу, Рим, Неаполь, Мессину, Палермо, Трапани, Марсалу, Сиракузы, Катанью; взбирался на Этну и Стромболи; побывал на Липарских островах; добрался до острова Лампедузы. Вернулся в Реджо-ди-Кaлабрия, пешком прошел по Кaлабрии до Пестума[2]. Первый раз был арестован в Неаполе его величеством Фердинандом. Собираясь вернуться через Венецию, был арестован вторично, в Фолиньо, его святейшеством Григорием XVI и переправлен карабинерами к Тразименскому озеру и оставлен на его берегах с предписанием возвратиться во Францию как можно скорее. И я вернулся во Францию."},{"id":"id6339:8","kind":"paragraph","text":"В 1842 году, по-прежнему верный замыслу, приобрел барку в порту Ливорно и, благодаря судну, которое должно было потонуть 10 раз, но не потонуло ни разу, побывал на островах Эльба, Пьяноса, Горгона, Монте-Кристо, Корсика."},{"id":"id6339:9","kind":"paragraph","text":"В 1846 году отправился в Мадрид. Посетил также Барселону, Малагу, Гранаду, Кордову, Севилью, Кадис; пересек пролив; попал в Танжер, из Танжера в Тетуан, из Тетуана в Гибралтар, из Гибралтара в Мелилью, из Мелильи в Джемму-Газауат, из Джеммы-Газауата в Оран, из Орана в Алжир. В Алжире сделал перерыв, чтобы повидать в глубине страны Блиду, ущелье Музайа, Милиану. Затем снова отправился в путь с удачными остановками в городах Джиджелли, Колло, Стора, Филиппвиль; прибыл в Константину; вернулся в Стору; сел на судно до Туниса и островов Керкенна; осмотрел римский амфитеатр Джем-Джем."}],"toc":[{"id":"id6342:0:1","label":"Annotation","page":1,"pageUrl":"/books/1mN3aZLq#reader-content"},{"id":"id6341:0:1","label":"От автора перевода. Реабилитация Дюма","page":1,"pageUrl":"/books/1mN3aZLq#reader-content"},{"id":"id6340:0:3","label":"Александр Дюма Из Парижа в Астрахань. Свежие впечатления от путешествия в Россию","page":3,"pageUrl":"/books/1mN3aZLq?page=3#reader-content"},{"id":"id6339:0:3","label":"Вступительное слово","page":3,"pageUrl":"/books/1mN3aZLq?page=3#reader-content"},{"id":"id6338:0:5","label":"Пролог","page":5,"pageUrl":"/books/1mN3aZLq?page=5#reader-content"},{"id":"id6338:56:7","label":"* * *","page":7,"pageUrl":"/books/1mN3aZLq?page=7#reader-content"},{"id":"id6338:93:9","label":"* * *","page":9,"pageUrl":"/books/1mN3aZLq?page=9#reader-content"},{"id":"id6338:136:11","label":"* * *","page":11,"pageUrl":"/books/1mN3aZLq?page=11#reader-content"},{"id":"id6338:179:13","label":"* * *","page":13,"pageUrl":"/books/1mN3aZLq?page=13#reader-content"},{"id":"id6338:327:17","label":"* * *","page":17,"pageUrl":"/books/1mN3aZLq?page=17#reader-content"},{"id":"id6338:395:19","label":"* * *","page":19,"pageUrl":"/books/1mN3aZLq?page=19#reader-content"},{"id":"id6337:0:19","label":"В 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